By Jay Warren

In August of 2003 I gratefully accepted the position of U.S. representative for Ireland’s Blue Book, an association of Ireland’s finest country house hotels, castles and restaurants. My years of work at Warren Tours with many of the association’s members, as well as my understanding for their world renowned brand of luxury and Irish hospitality, have been of great assistance to my new appointment, but my recent trip around the country, seeing all 41 magnificent properties, was by far my greatest lesson in the Ireland’s Blue Book school of thought. My time constraints allowed me only 14 days for this all-island tour of Ireland’s finest, an extremely impressionable whirlwind of a trip that I would recommend to anyone who has six weeks. For those like me with less time I would suggest just a sampling of Ireland’s Blue Book properties, and then several return trips to see what was missed!

Each property spoke to me in its own unique voice, as I worked my way around the countryside and experienced the Irish country house in its full glory: luxuriously furnished and elegantly appointed antique four-poster bedrooms, farm fresh gourmet New Irish cuisine, and intriguing conversation over cocktails with genteel house owners like the Knight of Glin and Madame Fitzgerald in their private ancestral home, Glin Castle and Brian and Lindy O’Hara in their 18th century family Georgian mansion, Coopershill House. As I traveled through virtually every county in Ireland, experiencing the unmatched hospitality of Ireland’s Blue Book in all parts of the country, I was overwhelmed with a sense of warmth and satisfied that I have now fully seen the best Ireland has to offer.

My Blue Book journey through Ireland began in Dublin, where my mission was to experience the big city cuisine of the capital’s premiere restaurants, l’Ecrivain Restaurant, Chapter One Restaurant, and Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, new and deserving additions to Ireland’s Blue Book. I started my culinary ride with lunch at l’Ecrivain, where I was welcomed by Derry and Sallyanne Clarke to their chic contemporary Irish-French restaurant on Lower Baggot Street. I enjoyed the chef’s tasting menu, which Derry orchestrated like a true maestro, each course more intriguing than the last, all reflecting his light-hearted, yet savvy character and years of experience. The Rare Seared Tuna seasoned with red pepper escabeche, soya and a honey glaze was an explosion of spicy sweetness, while the Venison Tournadoes were the most tender I have ever tasted, the texture of the best filet mignon. Sallyanne had the place running famously, indulging Dubliners in a spacious and stylish split-level dining room with an outdoor patio.

For dinner that evening I went to Chapter One, the stunning Dublin must-dine located in the Georgian basement of the Dublin Writer’s Museum on Parnell Square, once the home of John Jameson. The well-earned success story of famed chef, Ross Lewis and entrepreneur, Martin Corbett, this fashionable restaurant attracts lots of moving and shaking from Dublin’s in-the-know. Ross prepared a special tasting menu that expressed his appreciation for the fine fusion of old and new cuisine. The richly succulent Saute Foie Gras made my mouth puddle with pleasure, and the Roast John Dory with celery and cumin puree was mild, while uniquely zesty. With each course the sommelier brought a perfectly matched wine, which he enthusiastically presented with purpose. After dinner Martin proudly showed us Chapter One’s popular private rooms, which accommodate all sizes of groups, and the historic wine cellar, which still houses mature and extravagant wines.

To complete my tour of Dublin’s ruling gastronomic triumvirate I dined at the legendary Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, comprising a Georgian Townhouse adjoined to The Merrion Hotel. Two-star Michelin rated, this fine dining restaurant boasts the most coveted reservations in Dublin. My experience began with a cocktail in the lounge, where I was spoiled for choice while perusing the French influenced menu and saw each person in the room welcomed by the proprietor himself, Monsieur Guilbaud. Afterwards we were led into the dining room, where Manager, Stephane Robin, directs his nightly ballet of world–class presentation and service. Chef Guillaume Leburn surpassed his reputation, preparing the Lobster Ravioli, with coconut flavored cream, almonds, and “Kari” olive oil, with a balanced flavor of nutty richness. My main course was a special on the menu, the Partridge, and was special indeed, falling compliantly off the bone, though still lightly crispy. Dinner at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud was truly a piece of theater, where every diner sits front and center.

From the city I easily visited several properties in surrounding areas that each had a character all to their own. First I saw Moyglare Manor, a country house estate in Maynooth, County Kildare, where a tree-lined avenue leads to a wonderful Georgian House, bursting with antiques from floor to ceiling. I once brought a group of Supreme Court Justices to Moyglare Manor for a gala dinner, and I still remember their verdict: the fresh wild salmon could make you forget what the farmed stuff ever tasted like. The treasures found throughout the house are put together like a museum exhibit, without the velvet rope, allowing guests to submerse themselves in a country age long since passed.

From Moyglare I traveled to Barberstown Castle, another historic country house hotel where the simple, yet elegant décor was warm and inviting, greeting me with a log turf fire and an amiable staff. The dining room is the original castle keep, a medieval reminder of the site’s 13th century beginnings, while the menu reflects the New Irish cuisine of the new millennium. With design and aesthetics in mind, the period furniture and antique appointments at Barbrestown Castle have been selected to flatter the hotel’s historic grace. Recent multi-million Euro additions to the hotel have been in good keeping with the original architecture, offering guests lots of elbow room and several accommodation options.

The next day I visited four properties south of Dublin, beginning with a drive through Wicklow, the “garden of Ireland”. As I arrived at Newrath Bridge, near Rathnew I stopped to see Hunter’s Hotel, one of the oldest coaching inns in Ireland, now in its fifth generation as a Gelletlie family hotel. I was welcomed by the family and shown its quaint and roomy bedrooms, as well as its well-maintained gardens, where guests lounge the day away in natural splendor. From her pruning in the garden the family’s matriarch, Maureen Gelletlie came in to meet me, and we had a lovely conversation discussing Hunter’s long history of famed guests and loyal customers. Hunter’s homey, convivial reputation incarnate, Mrs. Gelletlie gave me more insight into her family’s proud heritage of providing old-fashioned hospitality to faithful guests from around the world.

From Hunter’s I made the short trip to Tinakilly House, an eminent Victorian-Italianate mansion, originally built for Captain Halpin, Commander of the Great Eastern, which laid the cables between Europe and America. Truly a seaman’s home, with sea views that go on forever, Tinakilly House is imposing, though romantically intimate, masculine, yet pleasingly soft. The 56 bedrooms and suites are stately and spacious, many offering sea views, and all with airy comfort and tasteful furniture. The public rooms flow into each other in grand fashion, antique decorated and invitingly plush.

From Wicklow I drove south into County Wexford, arriving Gorey to visit Marlfield House, a 19th century Regency House, now the lovingly spoiled baby of the Bowe family. On my last visit to Marlfield House my love affair began with this period jewel the moment I arrived and was welcomed by a pair of peacocks in the garden and a roaring fire in the foyer. The dinner was outstanding in country house tradition, beginning with a drink in the lounge as we looked over the menu, then a glorious gourmet feast in the atrium dining room, ending with coffee and après dinner drinks back in the lounge where we chatted for an age. My room, like all of the others, I might have mistaken for an Architectural Digest cover shoot, the gracefully appointed product of Mary Bowe’s exquisite taste and uncompromising luxury standards. Three sets of French doors invited me into Marlfield’s fabulous gardens, where birds and flowers commingled blissfully along lovely garden paths, a charming lake, and a wildfowl sanctuary. Ah…Marlfield.

Next I returned to County Wicklow to Dunlavin, where I visited Rathsallagh House, a happy country retreat, converted from Queen Anne’s stables in 1798, and now an Irish tradition in leisure. The O’Flynn family has perfected Irish country hospitality with a keen understanding of how to combine casual comfort with luxurious accommodation. I was welcomed by Joe O’Flynn, Jr. and by several Jack Russell Terriers, who scampered behind us throughout my tour. The many room options give guests their own escape into rural Ireland, while the extensive 500-acre estate provides a host of outdoor activities, including a championship 18-hole golf course, walking, and clay pigeon shooting. Character reigns supreme at Rathsallagh - it would not be unusual to find Joe O’Flynn, Sr. holding court at one end of the hotel’s bar, entertaining guests with his grandfatherly magnetism and sidesplitting yarns.

On my last day in Dublin I took the DART, the Dublin area’s commuter train to the lovely fishing village of Howth, about 25 minutes from the City Centre. There I visited the King Sitric, which stands proudly on the harbor of this buzzing village, and has become a Mecca for seafood lovers from near and far, who return for their fresh and fishy creations and impressive wine selection. It is easy to see why their comfy, well appointed rooms are each named for lighthouses, as each offers views of the harbor that keep guests mesmerized for hours. The restaurant, too, is designed to give guests a look out onto the sea, and with the salty winds blowing just outside, the King Sitric is truly a sight for all senses.

Leaving the city behind I headed north into Northern Ireland, where I first stopped to see Glassdrumman Lodge, situated in the small village of Annalong, County Down, a Tiger Woods-drive from the coast, and very convenient to the world-renowned golf club, Royal County Down. A family-run establishment known for their high quality food, Glassdrumman Lodge’s rooms are individually decorated and very spacious, some including their own working fireplace. The grounds of the property include a 1-acre fly- fishing lake for guests interested in outdoor pursuits, while indoors guests are invited to curl up with a good book or to socialize with the family and other guests in the honor bar lounge.

Next I was on to Belle Isle Castle, in Lisbellaw, County Fermanagh, the family castle of the Duke of Abercorn, situated on Upper Lough Erne. With two accommodation options, Belle Isle Estate offers the castle itself for exclusive rental, as well as courtyard cottages for self-catering. The castle’s bedrooms include the onetime guestroom of Coco Chanel and rooms that have hosted numerous other celebrities and royals, sure to make any group feel like royalty. Once upon a time I attended a spectacular luncheon hosted by the Duke in Belle Isle Castle. As we sat at the room-long table in the castle’s cathedral ceiling main dining room, and listened to enchanting stories of the castle and its many guests told entertainingly by the Duke, I had a glimpse into a regal age and I realized that at Belle Isle Castle anyone can have a taste of the fine life.

I went on to the North Antrim Coast where I arrived at the cozy Bushmills Inn, situated on the main street of Bushmills, County Antrim, home of the famous Irish whiskey. All day I had dreamed about their lovely Guinness Beef Stew, which I had savored a few years ago, so I immediately ordered a bowl upon my arrival, and after enjoying a hearty dinner, I sipped an Irish coffee by the fire. Later I retired to my room, which was warmed with dark woods and deep colored fabrics, as is prevalent throughout the hotel’s winding corridors and its many public sitting areas. The Bushills Inn’s executive rooms are of the highest standards, furnished with fine leather sofas and chairs and extra touches usually only found in much larger hotels.

Heading south from the Antrim Coast to Upperlands, Co. Derry I next visited Ardtara Country House. Upon entering this elegant period-maintained 19th century mansion, there is a sense of perfection in every aspect of the house’s ornate public rooms, antique detailed bedrooms, and welcoming staff. Guests are impressed by the deluxe accommodation, by the exquisite dining experience, and by the lovely grounds that cover eight acres. Romantically inclined, complete with in-room working fireplaces, Ardtara is special like a piece of ivory pearled wedding cake, sweet and sophisticated.

Back to the Republic of Ireland I drove next to County Donegal, where I visited St. John’s Country House and Restaurant in Fahan, on the Innishowen Peninsula overlooking Lough Swilly. St. John’s became famous for its award-winning cuisine and is now also renowned for its outstanding accommodation, which is of the same high standard. The lush and spacious rooms each have an individual and classic character, while the dining room maintains a stylish design and serves up the best food around. Large patios overlooking the water give a sense of serenity and splendor, synonymous with Donegal and the far-reaching Northwest of Ireland.

Rathmullan, County Donegal was my next destination, where I visited Rathmullan House set alongside the other side of Lough Swilly. A Georgian mansion built in the 1780’s, this familial operation would be a marvelous place for a family vacation, providing an indoor pool and ten private acres that lead to a two-mile stretch of beach. For adult-only getaways the house also offers a casual elegance, gourmet dining and an inviting cellar pub. In the recently refurbished main dining room, guests are treated to an array of fine food set in a refined environment.

As my last stop in Donegal I went to see St. Ernans House Hotel, which I had not seen for years, but had always remembered well. My memories of this hotel situated on its own causeway were rekindled as I drove the long private drive that effectively serves as a bridge between the mainland and the splendor that is St. Ernans. I was lead through each individually decorated room, most offering outstanding water views, and all spacious and well appointed. As with all Blue Book country houses the cuisine at St. Ernans attracts guests on its own, providing a distinct standard of gourmet brilliance.

South to Sligo I passed the majestic and mighty Ben Bulben, which dominates the landscape of “Yeats Country” and is arguably one of Ireland’s most stunning natural sights. I made my way to Castlebaldwin to have a look at Cromleach Lodge. With views of the Sligo landscape as far as the eye can see, Cromleach is tucked on a hill of green, a haven in the heartland. The rooms which overlook the right-out-of-a-painting landscape are all appointed with the amenities of a 5-star hotel, while the home-cooked gourmet cuisine and inviting public rooms make Cromleach a soft place to fall.

On to nearby Coopershill House for the evening, I was greeted by Brian and Lindy O’Hara, the owners of this18th century, family Georgian mansion. I felt as if I had arrived at Gosford Park as I entered the country house through the massive wooden doors and made my way up the grand old staircase to my antique four-poster bedroom. Over dinner Brian told me his family’s long history at Coopershill, portrayed in paint by the original portraits of his ancestors that adorned the dining room, dating back as far as 200 years. The meal was topped off by Lindy’s homemade pecan pie, which could win any state fair from Texas to Georgia. In the morning Lindy showed me the rest of the house, which was one room after another of beautiful antique furnishings and period elegance.

The next day I drove to the north coast of County Mayo, a raw and rugged coastline bejeweled by Ireland’s tallest cliffs and Ceide Fields, an interesting archaeological site and the oldest known agrarian remains in Europe. In Ballycastle I saw the Stella Maris Hotel, a new hotel, once a convent and girls’ school, which brought the owner and executive chef, Frances Kelly, back to the place she was educated as a local girl. With dramatic and raw sea views from the golf club named rooms, the Stella Maris feels a million miles from anywhere, while still offering designer-eye décor, modern amenities, and a perfect location for playing the Northwest’s off-the-beaten-path links courses, Bellmullet and Enniscrone.

From Ballycastle it was a short drive to Castlehill, near Ballina where I arrived to visit Enniscoe House. Another fully preserved 18th century Georgian family mansion, Enniscoe is a listed heritage house on spectacular grounds. The antique furnishings and precious family heirlooms are strewn through the grand old home of Susan Kellet and her son D.J., including a beloved dollhouse made and decorated by Susan’s mother years ago. On a walk through the grounds, attractive views of Lough Conn were revealed, as well as the house’s walled garden, under restoration, and a vegetable garden where organic produce is grown to supplement the dining room’s nightly menus.

The incredibly scenic back roads drive to Newport, County Mayo led me through some hardly traveled, but extremely picturesque mountain terrain. Upon reaching the center of Newport I arrived at Newport House, perhaps the proudest edifice in this sleepy town. Home of the O’Donnell’s for over 200 years, Newport House is not only steeped in history, it is an architectural masterpiece, complimented by an art and antique collection of museum quality. The house’s long history and exquisite accommodation are complimented by the sharp-as-an-arrow staff members, who are responsible for perfecting the outstanding cuisine, made from fresh local produce, and for the responsive service that make guests feel as if they have their own staff of servants, if only for a night.

On through Westport into Connemara, I drove the dangerously scenic mountain pass, where I stole several glimpses of the jaw-dropping landscape. I arrived in Letterfrack to visit Rosleague Manor, a Georgian mansion on Ballinakill Bay. Certainly individual and consistently elegant, Rosleague is rich with eclectic décor, bestowing each guest with their own special treasure, hidden behind each bedroom door. The Victorian regency manor conservatory with its glass atrium ceiling shouts personality, while walks on the grounds and to the nearby Connemara National Park make for an outdoorsman’s delight.

For my accommodation that evening I traveled a bit further into Connemara to Cashel for a night of pampered luxury at Cashel House Hotel, set on Cashel Bay amongst meticulously manicured gardens and lovely woodland walks. My room seemed to go on forever, detailed with soft and supple furniture and French doors opening onto the magnificent gardens. My meal that evening in the grand tiered half moon dining room was full of seafood surprises with the attentive service usually only found in big city fine dining restaurants. With years of experience in deluxe hospitality, Cashel House has honed a perfect combination of country house casual and world-class luxury.

In the morning it was off to Oughterard, due east in Connemara, where my journey lead me along a tree-tunneled road to Currarevagh House, the Victorian ancestral home of the current owners, built in 1842. Standing on the shores of Lough Corrib, Currarevagh’s eccentric character whispers playfully through every room in the house, and the family’s casual welcome is offered graciously. Dinner is made each night with an ever-changing menu and is served in the grand family dining room. I imagined a walk through the grounds, followed by a day of brown trout fishing on the lake, capped off with a hot whiskey in the parlor – just another summer day at Currarevagh.

Traveling around the tip of Lough Corrib I made my way to Caherlistrane, near Headford, to see Lisdonagh House. The opulent round foyer of the Geogian Lisdonagh House gave me an idea of what was to follow. As I delighted in exploring this stylish and richly textured house, I fell in love with the cellar of all places! Original stone walls, as you would imagine in age old castles, give the lower level rooms of Lisdonagh House a distinctly old world elegance, and like all of the rooms in the house, they are decorated with the finest fabrics, lavish furniture, and tasteful artwork. The self-catering accommodation, as well as a lovely coach house, offers guests luxurious privacy.

Later that day I drove through Galway City into County Clare, entering the lunar-like, Burren region, famous for its uniquely rocky terrain. At Ballyvaughan I made it to Gregans Castle Hotel, a place that has always stood out in my mind because of its meticulously landscaped gardens, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Burren. Each room offers its own attractive attribute, from suites with private gardens to rooms with views of the Burren and Galway Bay. Dinner at Gregans is an essential part of the experience, offering delectable dishes in Blue Book country house tradition.

My place to call home this night, Moy House, was down the coast of Clare, just past the Cliffs of Moher, in Lahinch, home of the world famous links course. Small and personal, private and lavish, Moy House is arguably all about location, location, location. My room, and most in the house, has views of the Atlantic, so vivid you could almost imagine the waves crashing into your bed! Dining at Moy House was consistent with the luxurious accommodation: it was fine, intimate, and fantastic. The owner’s casual friendliness is felt through the house as guests settle in for an escape from the real world.

The next day I was off to the Irish midlands to see Wineport Lodge just outside Athlone, situated lakeside on Ireland’s inland waterways. Upon arrival I was served a remarkable lunch, which was representative of Wineport Lodge’s nationwide reputation for terrific cuisine. After relishing my meal I saw the hotel’s wine themed bedrooms, all of which offer a balcony or patio overlooking the lake along with modern amenities like flat-screened TV’s and heated bathroom floors. Whether enjoying a glass of chardonnay on the sweeping lakeside patio or a bottle of champagne in the glass-walled Tattinger lounge, I found much to raise a glass to at Wineport Lodge.

Next on my list of must-sees was Castle Durrow, located in Durrow, County Laois, about 2 hours from Dublin Airport. Massive renovations of the castle have resulted in Ireland’s premier luxury hotel, now a palace-like edifice adorned with exquisite crystal chandeliers, lavish reception rooms, and original stained glass panels, still stunning, despite their many years in the castle. The rooms are furnished and decorated with the same high standards, and the owners of Castle Durrow have brought their many years of experience as restaurateurs to the superlative cuisine. An equestrian center on the grounds, as well as on-site river fishing, make Castle Durrow a wonderful place to be active, and their child-friendly policy keeps the castle light hearted and accommodating.

South through Kilkenny I arrived for the evening in Arthurstown, County Kilkenny, just outside Waterford City, at Dunbrody Country House, a 5-star standard country house hotel I had visited, but never experienced overnight. I had also never had the chance to enjoy their universally celebrated restaurant, about which I had heard great things from clients I had sent there. At long last Dunbrody proved to be everything I thought it would be and more. In a word: supreme. Chef and owner Kevin Dundon and his wife Catherine, have created a destination hotel, luring visitors with Kevin’s branded gourmet cuisine and keeping them with the sumptuous design and deluxe service. A major attraction these days is the Dunbrody Cookery School, where guests can learn first hand some of the self-cultivated trade secrets Kevin teaches in the hi-tech cooking school annex, located on the premises.

The next morning I drove along the incredibly scenic Cork Coast to Youghal, a charming fishing village that lures tourists and Irishmen alike with its congenial pubs and shops, ideal seaside location, and of course its prized Fitzgibbon family seafood restaurant, Aherne’s, situated smack in the middle of town. I was greeted at the door by Gaye Fitzgibbon’s warm smile and the aroma from her gourmet seafood kitchen, which wafted teasingly. I had a look at their well-rounded and tantalizing menu and then Gaye showed me their 12 large and well-appointed bedrooms, their popular bar, and finally their restaurant where the culinary magic happens all year round. With exquisite food and a friendly, casual atmosphere Aherne’s is a perfect example of today’s Ireland.

From Aherne’s I was off to Shanagarry, County Cork to visit Ballymaloe House, a Mecca for foodies from near and far. The matriarch of Ballymaloe House, Myrtle Allen, is a trailblazer in culinary Ireland, developing and perfecting Irish gourmet country house cuisine, which is now prepared by Rory O’Connell, a Eurotoque chef and just one of the family purveyors of the Ballymaloe tradition. On a tour of the house I was shown the delightful rooms, diverse artwork, and the outbuildings that include a gourmet kitchen shop and some lovely self-catering cottages. I also toured the nearby Ballymaloe Cookery School, perhaps the most well known of Irish culinary centers, founded by Darina Allen, Myrtle Allen’s daughter-in-law, where courses are from one day to three months, and offer a variety of cooking concepts.

Upon leaving Ballymaloe I drove up to Ballingarry, County Limerick, where I stayed the night at another renowned country house with extraordinary cuisine, the Mustard Seed at Echo Lodge. The charming and food savvy Dan Mullane started with his restaurant, The Mustard Seed, in the nearby town of Adare. His restaurant became a huge success and he eventually moved the well-received operation out to the country, where he created the Mustard Seed at Echo Lodge, an outstanding country house hotel, where guests are treated to individually decorated bedrooms and painstakingly manicured grounds. For years my clients had raved about the food at the Mustard Seed and dinner that evening lived up to its reputation: a medley of delicacies prepared with care and precision, a celebration of flavor.

In the morning I drove to incredibly scenic West Cork, another of Ireland’s naturally stunning and less visited areas. There I made my way to Bantry, and then to Ballylickey to Ballylickey Manor House, a 300 year-old piece of history set amidst amazing sea and garden views. The house boasts marvelously decorated bedrooms, all wonderfully embellished with sumptuous fabrics and cozy configurations. With Bantry Bay looming at the edge of the property, the grounds are lush and green and include an outdoor wading pool and garden cottages great for a family or those looking for a little more privacy.

My next stop in West Cork was at Blair’s Cove, a tranquil getaway situated on Dunmanus Bay with a distinguished top league restaurant. A Georgian house still stands on the grounds of Blair’s Cove. The accommodation, though, consists of three chic and unique rooms contained in the estate’s original stone outbuildings, all with their own charms and forward thinking contemporary design. The restaurant, magnificent in its own right, serves up stellar eats, most notably their seemingly endless buffet starters, prepared to impress. Arguably the most remarkable feature of Blair’s Cove is its ideal seaside location, with sea views that are portrait worthy.

On I went to County Kerry arriving in the market town of Kenmare, increasingly known as Ireland’s new “gourmet capital”, boasting more high quality restaurants per capita than any town in Ireland. There I checked into another cornerstone of Ireland’s Blue Book, the Park Hotel Kenmare, an elegant, 19th century hotel in the center of town. As I learned long ago The Park set the standard in Ireland for 5-star service and consistently welcomes guests with professional, yet affable rapport, as well as outstanding old world accommodation, and fine dining that could compete with the best restaurants in the world. The newest draw to The Park Hotel Kenmare is their premier destination spa, Samas, an ESPA-designed super-luxury haven, where pampering reaches new levels as guests are wrapped, rubbed, and relaxed in natural and ethereal environs.

From Kenmare I visited Caragh Lodge, outside of the town of Kilorglin just off the Ring of Kerry, a much-loved scenic ocean and mountain drive. Set on the majestic Caragh Lake on a rural country road, Caragh Lodge is a breathtaking mid-Victorian onetime fishing house with award-winning gardens, superior accommodation, and attentive service. In Blue Book fashion, the cuisine at Caragh Lodge is excellent, a labor of love for the house’s owner, Mary Gaunt, who supervises the kitchen and creates inventive menus each night. Wandering through the mature gardens guests are treated to a concerto of color and several prized specimens of shrubs, trees, and flowers.

Traveling on to the ruggedly scenic Dingle Peninsula I arrived in Dingle Town to visit Doyle’s Seafood Restaurant and Townhouse, ideally located in the middle of town, walking distance to Dingle’s many music pubs, restaurants, and shops. As their name indicates they are known well for their fantastic seafood dishes, a culmination of fresh fish and creative integrity, served in a chatty atmosphere. Each room at Doyle’s is impressively appointed with cheery touches and comfortable, stylish furniture. With Dingle Town as its playground, this small family-run hotel is a perfect place to find some good old-fashioned craic (Irish for fun).

My trip then brought me on to Mallow, County Cork to Longueville House, home of the O’Callaghan family. A 1720 family Georgian mansion set on a massive 500 acre wooded estate in the Black Water Valley, Longueville House has received a reputable position in the Southwest as a stately country getaway of the most elegant character, complimented by a world class restaurant. Through each room I was awed by the meticulous pattern of grand period style. For lunch I was invited to dine in the on-site owner’s quarters where I was welcomed graciously by Aisling O’Callaghan and her husband, William, the supervising chef of President’s Restaurant, Longueville’s highly touted jewel in the crown. Using fresh produce from the garden, farm, and river, the food stands out as a delectable combination of William’s expert culinary training and artistic passion.

My last night on this incredible Blue Book journey was spent in Glin, County Limerick, at Glin Castle, the 700 year-old Fitzgerald ancestral home of Desmond Fitzgerald, the Knight of Glin and his wife, Madame Fitzgerald. The epitome of old-world Irish grandeur, Glin Castle is full of priceless antiques and ancestral portraits, and is set idyllically along the banks of the River Shannon. I dined that night with the Knight and his wife Madame Fitzgerald, which started with champagne in the ornately adorned period living room, followed by dinner in their family kitchen, and completed with fascinating conversation about the castle and the Knight’s extensive good works in architectural conservation with the Irish Georgian Society. In the morning I was led through the castle to discover its spacious and tastefully decorated rooms, all with views of the formal gardens or the River Shannon. Later the Knight showed me around the expansive grounds that contain a walled garden and acres of wooded walks, completing the picture of what it means to be a member of Ireland’s Blue Book.

Though I probably gained a few pounds during my trip, with all the amazing food and drink I devoured, I definitely see the bright side - I took a part of Ireland home with me. In my head, my soul, and around my waist! When I think about my two weeks of travels through the villages, towns and countryside of Ireland, I am struck by my good fortune. What a joy is to be able to represent these fine establishments and have the opportunity to relive this once in a lifetime trip each time I speak of Ireland’s Blue Book and its unforgettable cast of characters.

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